HOW TO SET UP YOUR FULL SUSPENSION BIKE:

- Read the instructions that came with the bike! There are general rules for suspension set up, but individual bikes do vary.

Set the sag (spring rate):

Sag is the amount the bike sinks into the travel with the rider's weight on it. Most bikes are designed to run at 25% - 33% sag (check the manual). As a rule of thumb - less sag for XC bikes, more for trail/DH bikes. It's critical you get the sag right, not only for suspension performance, but also to ensure that the bikes geometry is correct.

First push the o-ring on the shock shaft up to the seal on the shock body. Sit bolt upright on the bike with both feet on the pedals and your hands off the bars (you may need a friend to help you). Carefully get off the bike, taking care not to bounce the suspension. Check to see how far down the shock shaft the o-ring has moved - this is the sag. If your manual gives the correct sag in mm, you can just compare one against the other. If you don't have these figures then you need to measure the full length of the shock shaft (less a couple of mm) and compare that against the measured sag. If it's sagging too far add air, too little let some air out. If your bike has a coil spring and you fall out of the sag range, then you'll need a different spring.

For forks, follow the same procedure, but stand on the bike with your hands on the bars in the position you would if rolling down a hill.

Damping:

Damping controls the speed at which the suspension compresses and rebounds and is the shock absorbing component of the suspension. We'll deal with compression and rebound damping separately.

- Rebound:

This is the speed that the shock returns to its neutral position after compressing. Too fast the bike will behave like a pogo stick. Too slow and the shock may not return before hitting the next bump. Normally the rebound control is the red dial - clockwise to slow it down, anti-clockwise to speed it up. A simple way to approximate the correct setting is to ride off a kerb with all your weight on the saddle - the bike should bounce back once, but not carry on bouncing. In our experience most people set their rear shocks too fast. Once you've found the right setting you can adjust it one or two clicks either side depending on the situation. Slower rebound for fast and rocky, faster rebound for cruising on mellower terrain.

- Compression:

The main compression damping component is normally factory set. However you may have a Brain or Pro-Pedal switch on your shock. These are designed to minimise the effect pedalling has on the suspension. Pro-Pedal is normally a simple on or off switch, Brains have a sensitivity threshold dial. Pro-Pedal switched on or a high threshold on the Brain means that the bike will respond better to pedalling, but with some lack of bump sensitivity. Unlike rebound damping settings there is not a correct setting, it's more about personal preference. Play with it and see what setting you like. It may vary according to the terrain you are riding.

Some general rules:

If the sag is correct but the suspension feels too soft, add compression damping or Pro-Pedal, NOT a higher spring rate.

On full suspension bikes it's better to have the rebound damping set slower on the rear and slightly faster on the front, rather than the other way round. This way the bike is less likely to buck you over the bars on steep terrain.

Whilst Pro-Pedal and other platform damping gadgets are principally designed for pedalling efficiency, they can be used to make the bike feel more stable and wallow less when riding downhill.

Rear shocks are set at the factory assuming an average rider weight and riding style. If you are particularly heavy or light or reckon you are faster than average (!), then your shock may benefit from custom tuning. Pop in and see us for more information on this.

When making adjustments start with big changes (and count the clicks). Halve the number of clicks for each successive adjustment. This way you should be able to zoom in on the correct setting more easily.

Lock outs! A number of bikes come with a suspension lock out. Our feeling is that these are largely unnecessary. Good modern suspension designs are there to help you, both up and downhill.

Maintenance:

Modern suspension components are expensive and sophisticated. As such they require regular maintenance to ensure correct function and longevity. Firstly NEVER jetwash your bike, you risk driving filth past the seals on the pivot bearings and the shock shafts. Warm soapy water and a brush is all you need. Secondly, take care to clean the shafts and seals on both forks and shocks on a regular basis, you can also wipe a little oil on the shafts to keep them nice and slippery.

Dampers should be fully serviced at least every 12 months. Furthermore cartridge forks (Fox, most modern RockShox and Marzocchi) and air shocks should have the bushings and seals cleaned and re-lubed regularly. Most manufacturers recommend about 20 hours of riding… Keep up to date on this and your suspension should last years, neglect it and you could be in for a very expensive bill. You have been warned!